DRESS Melbourne

Just another WordPress.com site

Category: Case Study

Yohji Yamamoto

 

Whilst researching for my ASOS investigation i discovered that Yohji Yamamoto is stocking a line in ASOS. I  thought this was strange considering his style of fashion design, although it just further reflects the celebrity influence upon fashion and how the fashion designer is often created to be a celebrity.

To see his line follow the link:

https://www.google.com.au/search?sugexp=chrome,mod=17&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=Yohji+Yamamoto

rentoid.com

Renting fashion has long been a popular choice for individuals however this has expanded from businesses renting clothes to the individual renting clothes creating a new fashion system where wardrobes have the potential to earn the consumer money.

Read more at http://www.rentoid.com

Kickstarter fashion

 

Crowd funding has the potential to rapidly change the fashion industry. Now individuals can vote with their dollar through supporting ideas that they like before the come to market. The Versalette was one of the most successful ventures raising approximately $64,000 through the global community. To read more visit: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/revolutionapparel/the-versalette-by-r-evolution-apparel?ref=card

Etsy

Fantastic article about Etsy being launched in Melbourne. I think this format of web based stores with a ‘showroom’ will become a regular feature  in the modern world. Shop fronts are simply not viable, flagship/pop up stores are the way of the future.

 

Online marketplace Etsy has turned to bricks and mortar with the opening this week of a showroom in Melbourne to increase awareness of the site ahead of further planned growth in Australia.

The announcement of the showroom comes as the Brooklyn-based American company embarks on a new phase of expansion after raising $40 million from investors last week.

Kirsteene Phelan, Etsy’s Australian spokesperson, told SmartCompanyopening the showroom was part of the online marketplace’s push into Australia.

“Australia is one of Etsy’s key markets, we are early adopters of anything online. We make great things and we are really confident with online shopping,” says Phelan.

“Etsy is very different to other online shopping as it is all user generated and very community focused, this is an offline way of demonstrating that community.

“You can’t actually buy from the showroom; it is display only. It is to encourage passers by and people who may not have experience of Etsy to engage with the site.”

Phelan says the additional $40 million in funding, which comes from existing partners, means Etsy will be launching a lot of initiatives to develop its international markets.

“Etsy really wants to speak to people globally,” she says.

In 2011 Etsy sold $15.2 million in gross merchandise sales in the Oceania region, which includes Australia and New Zealand, with 96% of the money going back to sellers.

Phelan says the Oceania sales make up 2.9% of the group’s total sales and reflect a 73% year-on-year growth in the Oceania region, with 15 million international members.

The Melbourne showroom will also operate as Etsy’s first office in the southern hemisphere according to Phelan.

“The room is in the Nicholas building in Melbourne’s central business district and we will fill it every three months with a curated selection of sellers’ work from around Australia,” she says.

“It will be themed to reflect major initiatives at Etsy. At the moment that is our wedding registry and buying experience.

“We also have the ability to assist sellers with any queries they have about their shops.”

The showroom follows behind similar Etsy showrooms in the Netherlands and Germany, however these only operated on a temporary “pop up” basis.

Caitlin Phillips, who runs the Australian Etsy shop Little Miss January, is one of the Etsy sellers who has been asked to participate in the Etsy showroom

“This week, I received an email from Etsy International’s Melbourne office, asking if they could use one of my products in three upcoming Etsy showrooms,” Phillips posted on her blog.

“I am so excited about this, it’s such a big opportunity for me so early on in my Etsy career.”

If you are still wondering what exactly Etsy is, here’s five things you did not know about the online retailer.

1. Etsy is an online handmade marketplace

Etsy describes itself as “the world’s handmade marketplace” and the website hosts online shops for sellers.

Where Amazon revolutionised online sales and eBay made its name allowing people to sell off their unwanted goods, Etsy taps into trends for hand-crafted and personalised items.

Etsy has three revenue streams: it charges a 3.5% sales fee on every transaction; it has a listing fee of 20 cents for every item; and it allows sellers to buy advertising to promote their items within the site.

On its website the company says it aims to “empower people to change the way the global economy works.”

“We see a world in which very-very small businesses have much-much more sway in shaping the economy,” the website states.

2. Etsy has been around for seven years

Etsy was founded by Rob Kalin in early 2005.

The painter, carpenter, and photographer, found there was no viable marketplace to exhibit and sell his creations online as he thought other E-commerce sites were to focused on electronics and appliances.

Along with Chris Maguire and Haim Schoppik, Kalin designed the site, wrote the code, assembled the servers, spliced the cables, and launched Etsy on June 18th, 2005 after three months.

Kalin has now sold out of the company and Chad Dickerson took over as chief executive 10 months ago.

3. The website was an immediate success

Within two months of its launch Etsy had 1018 sellers, 8451 items listed and over $10,000 in sales.

The site’s rate of growth has been exponential with worldwide sales in 2011 now $525.6 million, and Etsy has over 15 million members, 875,000 active shops and 42 million unique visitors a month.

4. The handmade ethos continues if you work at Etsy

Etsy’s main offices are in a Brooklyn warehouse where employees are served staff lunches twice a week called “Eatsy”.

Each new member of the Etsy staff gets a $100 credit from the company’s website to decorate his or her workspace.

5. Etsy tries to shake up traditional sales techniques

Etsy’s innovative sales approach includes letting shoppers browse by colour and allowing geographical searches to support local suppliers.

Every seller has their own shop, with a little biography to encourage a personal connection.

http://www.smartcompany.com.au/retail/049744-etsy-opens-melbourne-showroom-as-part-of-its-australian-push-5-things-you-didn-t-know-about-the-online-marketplace.html?goback=%2Egde_3959223_member_116678543

High street hits back

NATASHA SILVA-JELLY

April 14, 2011

Vintage appeal... Clare Press in her Oxford Street boutique.Vintage appeal… Clare Press in her Oxford Street boutique. Photo: Tamara Dean

Traditional stores are turning to new tactics in a bid to compete with the online fashion phenomenon, writes Natasha Silva-Jelly.

Blame it on the global financial crisis, the rise of the mega-mall, the online shopping revolution or our sky-high dollar but the boutique retail sector is suffering. Clothing and footwear sales declined 4.8 per cent in the year to December and a stroll down any of Sydney’s once-burgeoning shopping precincts will reveal a stream of sale signs and, worse, empty stores.

In the latest twist, retailers have resorted to charging try-on fees in store, which are refunded upon purchase, to stop consumers heading online to search for the same item at a lower price.

Besieged by the new world of e-commerce, it is no longer enough for traditional bricks-and-mortar stores to fill their racks and then wait for the customers to roll in.

Robby Ingham's store in Paddington.Robby Ingham’s store in Paddington. Photo: Tamara Dean

”E-commerce is growing at an exponential rate,” says Katherine Milesi, a partner at Deloitte’s Online Practice, which delivers and implements digital strategies for a number of fashion retailers. Speaking at an e-tail seminar in Melbourne last month, Milesi described the internet shopping boom as ”the black swan Australia did not see coming”.

But she believes high-street retailers can coexist happily with the new digital platform. The key to success, Milesi says, is to ensure they differentiate what they provide and the way they provide it.

”Our advice is to create a multi-channel offering where the store, internet and social networking go hand in hand,” she says.

Belinda Seper hosts special events to draw shoppers.Belinda Seper hosts special events to draw shoppers. Photo: Tamara Dean

”Retailers could encourage customers to go online to browse and then insist they pick up in-store. Or provide an online kiosk inside the store where shoppers can view extended ranges that they can only order online.”

Forced to employ such strategies, niche boutiques and single-brand retailers are becoming increasingly creative about ways to lure consumers away from the keyboard.

”I love having a store because I have an old-fashioned sensibility,” says Sydney designer Clare Press, who opened her Mrs. Press vintage-inspired store on Paddington’s Oxford Street nine months ago. ”I love the traditional shopping experience, a delicious environment, boutique rather than mass, special treatment and a sensory hit that you can’t get online. But as a designer with one store, we have become a destination so you have to work hard as customers are no longer going to walk past and buy a dress on a whim.”

When customers do enter, the fact Press’s work studio is above her store means she is on hand to offer personalised service. She has also created an inviting sensory environment: the boutique smells of magnolia candles and is kitted out like a 1920s boudoir, complete with a black spiral staircase and a gold-velvet theatre chair, and is brimming with vintage treasures collected over the past decade.

”Our clients describe the store as being very European and the decor is all part of the experience,” Press says.

So are the regular salon shows (the most recent to launch the latest racing collection by milliner Suzy O’Rourke), champagne and macaroon shopping nights for VIPs, trend talks by fashion media and a style blog written by Press, a former features director for Vogue Australia.

Also sharpening up their service and rethinking their offering are our well-known luxury fashion retailers, which now find themselves pitted against hugely popular online sites net-a-porter.com and shopbop.com.

”We haven’t changed our philosophy, we don’t sell online, but we have changed the way we market to clients,” says Sydney retail veteran Robby Ingham. ”We have a blog, we email and now we text [customers] the same day new stock arrives.”

Ingham’s high-end Paddington boutique is home to labels such as Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang and Givenchy and has been a Sydney shopping hot spot for 28 years.

”Service has always been at the heart of our business,” he says. ”Going in-store allows you to feel the garment, see the proper colour and fit and bring it back if something goes wrong. We can also do alterations and offer advice on how to maintain pieces.”

Trawling the globe to unearth new and unique labels that suit the Sydney market and regularly changing the mix to keep the offering interesting is core to the sales strategy, as is extensive refurbishment of the store last year to ”refresh the brand and remind customers we’re here”.

”We also have designer meet-and-greets and give our VIPs early notice when a new collection arrives and offer pre-selling,” Ingham says. ”The internet is not going away and as long as international sites are not taxed like an Australian business, they will always have a 20 per cent advantage.”

But the web is ”also a fantastic medium to find out about new labels and keep up with the latest fashion blogs, so you have to go with it”.

The chain of Belinda and The Corner Shop boutiques owned by Belinda Seper in Sydney and Melbourne will soon enter the online shopping space.

But for now the focus remains on enticing customers into the stores via film and fashion nights, photography exhibitions, personal stylists on hand and at-home wardrobe overhaul sessions, should you require the store to come to you.

Seper also employs one-off initiatives such as a tea salon that has been set up at The Corner Shop boutique in Paddington this month, along with VIP launches to showcase new designers, most recently Britain’s Erdem and Christopher Kane.

On the more affordable high street, Sportsgirl is one of the best examples of a retailer that is embracing e-commerce but also updating its bricks-and-mortar stores. Sportsgirl offers a buzzing in-store environment, trendy staff, a dizzying array of well-merchandised racks and a specialised vintage section. It also has services including ”chill out” rooms and ”style me” studios where shoppers can indulge in a one-on-one styling session that is difficult to replicate in cyberspace.

But the long-established chain store has certainly given it a try: the Sportsgirl website features global style reports, a section to learn about Sportsgirl events in your area, regular competitions and blogs and even Sportsgirl TV.

Together, the stores and the website offer a whole-of-brand experience that constitutes an ideal meeting of in-store and online.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/high-street-hits-back-20110413-1de9o.html#ixzz1t8eZjSLN

Lagerfeld Confidential

Lagerfeld Confidential is the first public biography of Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s creative director.

In response to the question how is a fashion designer created as a celebrity I feel it is a complex area of factors that are all used to position themselves separate from the ordinary person.

Celebrities separating themselves I feel is primarily due to the lack of information that is made available to the public. A lack of information fuels interest and promotes the idea of a celebrity within the public. In the digital world currently information is easy to access. Information that is wanted but is hard to uncover automatically creates a sense on exclusivity.

Lagerfeld keeps information at bay and carefully chooses what he wants share.  When questioned in Lagerfeld Confidential who knows him, Lagerfeld stated that he doesn’t even know, and ‘how can he’? –  As he constantly ‘moulds people’s opinions’ so he can control what others think and know about him, adding to the exclusivity of his image.

Appearance can also not be discounted when referring to how a fashion designer can be created as a celebrity. Lagerfeld’s extravagant fashion choice no doubt aids to his stance as a fashion celebrity.

Lagerfeld’s extravagant fashion choice too provides him with a form of security. His glasses are his signature however he enjoys the mystery and security they provide him with. This is confirmed when Lagerfeld says ‘I don’t want to be filmed without my glasses’.

Other factors which contribute to the fashion designer as being a celebrity are;

  1. The use of social media: Now allows the fashion designer to come into the public through the creation of their own image in the       public domain
  2. Fashion bloggers are able to seek out and provide the public with more information that they would not otherwise not have access too
  3. The front row – Fashion designers often sit in the front row creating again the a form of separation between the public and the

Social Media Case study – brief notes to be expanded

Case study:

Social Medias impact within fashion

Industry Structure:

Social Networks (originally peer to peer)

Virtual Media (Second Life)

Micro blogs (Twitter)

Blogs (WordPress / Blogger / Tuumblr)

Professional (LinkedIN)

Sharing (Flickr/ Instagram)

Organisational bodies:

General user – the individual user social media to stay in touch

Brand – uses social media to create publicity and interaction for consumer

PR company – specialise in social media marketing

Platforms – social media platform webmasters, run the sites and provide the platform

Production of artefacts:

All user generated content facilitated by the platform

Can be from the public or a brand.

Constant evolution of content. Content is never static

Constant ‘sharing’ and recycled content. Often seen on blogs or sharing content wall to wall on facebook.

 

Legitimating:

Legitimated through peer network , blogging , fashion gurus

The usage is enough to show how successful

New generation of PR specialist who only deal with online media

More options for the consumer

Real time , constant updates

Diffusion mechanisms: 

Spreads online.

Though peer to peer / brand to consumer / fan to celebrity etc.

Twitter has ‘trending now’ can search popular

Tagging on facebook

Traditional media highlighting social media ie. tv, magazines

TSEN Launch

I recently attended the TSEN launch in Collingwood, Melbourne.  What a great way to celebrate the launch of a new line. Although it was a great night i can see how these events are in a sense manufactured to become a form of branding and advertising for the label.

At these events lots of high profile fashionable elite were present as well the blogging community. The days after the event i came to realise that in fact these events are much bigger than they appear. For days afterward bloggers wrote about the night and created and built the brand which is TSEN through the well know people who attended.

Through Facebook the ability of ‘tagging’ also helps to promote this further. Individuals can tag or be tagged and this brings the advertising into the world of social media.

The points mentioned above all help in the system and flows of fashion which is accentuated by people and technology.

Example of how branding is achieved through fashion photography. The photographer mentioned how she needed to get images of the sponsor products while photographing the guests also. This is then advertising when its posted up on the blogs and Facebook as it promotes a lifestyle along with the original brand.

*Photo from StyleZilla http://www.stylezilla.com.au/article/tsen-a-w-2012-collection-launch-295

Homemade

Some rings I have made using recycled sea glass. The use of technology has allowed people to see what I and others can make without having to have a store of presence within ‘reality’ which is often hard to achieve if it is production on a small scale.  It has enabled me to access people who i wouldn’t normally through the brilliance of technology. Sites such as Etsy and eBay also contribute to this form of fashion.

EBAY


EBAY , a case study within the topic of ‘ the flow of fashion through people and technology”

Industry Structure:

Online structure, made up of sellers both professional and casual. Traders can sell their own clothes or professional ‘pickers’ hunt for clothes which they can then resell and make a profit. In EBay has been described as a virtual street market.

Wikipedia “consumer to consumer trading structure”

Organisational bodies:

EBay is the owning company. They have a global presence with sites in over 30 countries.

Brands: Traditional stores and brands are having EBay stores to maintain their industry position and increase audience. Witchery and Mimco are examples. This also benefits to counter act other dealers selling ‘fakes’ or heavily reduced items.

Charity: Charity auctions are used to sell clothing on EBay. Often people donate and then 100% of the profits can be donated to the charity.  A current example is Marie Clare’s collaboration with Tamara Ecclestone who have teamed up In support of The Australian Children’s Music Foundation. They are auctioning three pieces of her extravagant wardrobe with all profits being donated to the charity. Often these auctions have an inflated price as people are happy to support charity and enjoy the ‘celebrity’ factor.

Individual: Individuals such as students and Mums sell unwanted clothing and goods to make extra money. Not always to make a profit but to recoup some of the money they have spent on the item to re buy new seasons trends or contribute to savings or travel.

Dealers: EBay dealers sell to make a profit. They buy either new or second hand items with the soul purpose to re sell and make a profit. In terms of the vintage trade EBAY dealers complete the EDIT for consumers. The scale of the vintage market is very large vintage traders earn their money through being able to sort the good from the bad.

Production of artefacts:

Second hand

New

Donated

Made

A  place to buy. Get nearly anything you need or want at prices better than you can find in traditional brick-and-mortar or even online stores. Though there are lots of rotten deals on eBay, too, the careful consumer can always come out ahead. (http://ebay.about.com/od/gettingstarted/a/gs_whatisebay.htm)

A place to sell. Whether you’re a bix-box retailer or just an average Joe (or Jane) cleaning out your garage, nearly anything you list on eBay will sell if you’re flexible enough about the price. eBay’s global reach can even move unusual items that aren’t in demand in your own neighborhood, turning paperweights into cash. (http://ebay.about.com/od/gettingstarted/a/gs_whatisebay.htm)

A meeting place, not a store. eBay doesn’t actually sell any goods itself. All of the goods on eBay are sold and delivered by third party sellers that are neither employed by, nor have any other relationship with, eBay itself. Instead, eBay’s business is to give entrepreneurs and sellers a place to reach buyers, and to give buyers access to the world’s largest collection of things for sale. (http://ebay.about.com/od/gettingstarted/a/gs_whatisebay.htm)

A place to shop. Because of the immense variety of things that can be found for sale on eBay, many members have discovered that eBay is one of the best places in the world to window or comparison shop. The millions of item listings created by sellers often include photos, detailed descriptions, and owner experiences. Because you can see lots of the same item side-by-side in various conditions and know what each one sold or is selling for, eBay gives you insight into the real market value or “street value” of most types of goods around the world. (http://ebay.about.com/od/gettingstarted/a/gs_whatisebay.htm)

Legitimating:

Brought second-hand culture into the mainstream. This is highly beneficial in terms if sustainability also. Also with sellers ‘editing’ their collection it allows for a easier way of shopping. No longer do consumers need to search around their city, simply log on to eBay.

Green. eBay is has proven to be a boon to the environment. Millions of tons of goods that would otherwise go into landfills or more resource-intensive recycling programs instead find new homes every year thanks to eBay. Some of these goods include consumer electronics items like computer parts and mobile phones that release toxic substances once they’re discarded and exposed to the environment. (http://ebay.about.com/od/gettingstarted/a/gs_whatisebay.htm)

Socially responsible. Because eBay eliminates middlemen and lowers barriers to buying and selling, potters in rural Mexico and bead weavers in central Asia can sell hand-made goods directly and inexpensively to a massive global audience. This brings new economic opportunities to developing areas and increases cultural understanding between populations. eBay has become one of the world’s most interesting and exciting trans-national ambassadors. (http://ebay.about.com/od/gettingstarted/a/gs_whatisebay.htm)

Diffusion mechanisms:

EBay was founded during the “dot-com” bubble.  Its primary diffusion mechanisms include spreading via the internet. The internet has allowed individuals to become a part of the online selling revolution through eBay. Due to the ease of use it has spread virtually around the globe.